Why You’ll Love Les Deux Alpes
South of Grenoble, in the Department of Isère, the Alps take a literal turn. “You’re after mountains?” they seem to ask. “OK, here’s a perfect, towering pyramid for you. And cliffs? What if we make them several hundred metres high?” Even seasoned ski writers can’t help but gaze, astonished, out of the window as they make their way to the region’s resorts and Les Deux Alpes.
Les Deux Alpes ski resort
Tucked away amidst all this visual drama is Les Deux Alpes — a lively, mid-sized resort that always seems to be on the cusp of the A-list, yet never quite breaks through. Its long and rather slender ski area is probably the reason for that. But it’s not without its merits.
Skiing Experience
Beginners
There are nursery slopes right at the bottom of the ski area, some of which are served by free drag lifts. Even better, halfway up the mountain, a gentle balcony of more snowsure pistes offers several easy descents where you can progress.
But the real marvel of Les Deux Alpes is that it boasts an easy-skiing route from the top of the ski area, all the way back into town. It’s rare to find such a run, and tackling it is a huge confidence boost for beginners or shaky intermediates. Admittedly, until the Jandri Express gondola is replaced for the start of the 2024-5 season, the journey to the top is slow. But in some ways, this adds to the sense of achievement — this is a journey to be savoured.
Intermediate Skiers
More confident skiers who aren’t ready yet to venture off-piste will enjoy the bowls and little valleys in the Toura sector the most. Fairly high and north-facing, they retain their cold, soft snow for most of the season. They’ll also relish blasting down the broad blues on the glacier. However, none of these sectors is particularly large, and anyone seeking variety should plan at least one excursion; the six-day Big Ski Area lift pass offers a day or two of skiing in several neighbouring resorts. Alpe d’Huez is the prime target, especially for those who can afford the optional — and utterly breathtaking — helicopter shuttle between the resorts. That said, in purely skiing terms, the terrain in Serre Chevalier will suit most intermediates better.
Advanced Skiing and Snowboarding
Thanks to the ski area’s length and height, there are a lot of lift-serviced, off-piste descents branching off it. Some are relatively easy, as far as powder-skiing goes, but hiring a local mountain guide (or joining an off-piste lesson from one of the local ski schools) is essential nonetheless. These slopes are prone to avalanches and some are intersected by cliff bands too.
Off the Slopes
Activities
In July and August, Les Deux Alpes boasts a mind-boggling array of activities. In fact, it’s one of the most vibrant of all summer resorts in France. In winter, by contrast, the off-slope scene is more subdued, and the resort still lacks a big indoor aquapark or public swimming pool — somewhat of a drawback if you’re holidaying with children. However, you can try dog-sledding, tandem paragliding, snow-biking, ice-climbing, and tobogganing here. Or, hurtle off a ramp while seated on a giant inflatable doughnut. The landing is on a huge, 10m x 15m airbag.
For something more tranquil, book private yoga classes, or visit the spa at the Hôtel Côte Brune for a treatment or massage. Those keen to explore should take the lift from the southern end of the resort, down to the cobbled streets of Venosc, in the valley below. If you’re seeking a more peaceful version of the Alps, far from the buzz of modern ski resorts, this is where you’ll find it.
Après-Ski
Les Deux Alpes is both more affordable than the larger resorts further north and home to a thriving freestyle and snowboarding scene — so it’s no surprise that the après-ski here is lively. It starts halfway down the slopes at the Pano Bar, with a DJ on the roof, a packed terrace, and the party spilling out onto the snow. Then, later, it spreads out across bars along the entire length of this linear town.
That said, if you’re after a proper party atmosphere, head to the larger, more developed area at the southern end of Les Deux Alpes. This has always been the resort’s hub and is home to its lively nightlife, thanks to venues like Smithy’s Tavern, K.ré, La Grotte du Yeti, and — around midnight — L’Avalanche Club. Those looking for a quieter, sit-and-sip experience should visit the bar of the Hôtel Côte Brune or the Motown Café.
Culinary Delights and Accommodations
Food and Drink
When it comes to mountain restaurants, Les Deux Alpes doesn’t have many options. Le Diable Au Coeur, at the top of the Diable chairlift, is everyone’s favourite for a proper sit-down lunch accompanied by spectacular mountain views. Despite its gastronomic slant, its three-course menu is relatively inexpensive for the French Alps. But if all you want is a hot, filling plate of sausages and chips, for not much more than a tenner, then the Smokehouse is the place, in the Toura sector. Chalet de la Toura, nearby, is recommended for pizzas.
For dinner, there’s plenty of choice. The resort is dotted with small, privately owned, reasonably priced restaurants, but it also has gastronomic credibility, thanks to the Michelin-starred Le P’tit Polyte in the Chalet Mounier. Dining here, on well-balanced and carefully assembled dishes such as egg confit with Arnad bacon, radish, and crispy beef, requires a substantial budget.
More representative of Les Deux Alpes‘ style — and prices — is Le Grain de Sel, which serves much-loved rustic pizzas, cooked in a wood-fired oven, alongside fondues, burgers, and rich stews. Le Rustique is cut from the same cloth. It’s a friendly, relaxed place, with a menu of inventive specials ranging from pork cheeks cooked in mustard sauce to salmon ceviche and tandoori chicken.
Property Investments
Les Loges Blanches is a new development of exclusive apartments in the centre of Les 2 Alpes, on the main street (Avenue de la Muzelle), right in front of the Jandri Express. These high-end apartments will be set in five chalets in a truly exquisite mountain style combining wood and local stone for that luxury Savoyard feel.
Les Deux Alpes sits in a U-shaped saddle of land, between two massifs, and stretches a mile and a half long from north to south. For most of that distance, it’s no more than a couple of streets wide, although it does broaden at the southern and northern ends. Our latest gem is the Les Deux Alpes new development with a Spa right next to the famous Jandri Express.
Les Loges Blanches is a new development of exclusive apartments in the centre of Les 2 Alpes, on the main street (Avenue de la Muzelle), right in front of the Jandri Express. The 52 apartments at Les Loges Blanches will range from the cosy 1-bedroom pied-a-terre to the extensive 5-bedroom duplex trophy apartment on the top floor.
These high-end apartments will be set in five chalets in a truly exquisite mountain style combining wood and local stone for that luxury Savoyard feel. There will be a reception area to welcome guests and owners and a Spa area with an indoor swimming pool, jacuzzi, and sauna. Many of the apartments face southeast for light for most of the day.
Top location on the main avenue with shops and restaurants Right in front of the Jandri Express main lift Residence with reception, swimming pool, and spa Fully rental-managed and flexible usage VAT can be claimed back with the proper rental agreement Reduced stamp duty and legal fees for new-build properties Indoor, heated swimming pool and spa
This kind of elongated, valley-bottom shape could be a recipe for disaster. But a free shuttle bus and evenly spaced lifts save most guests from a long, slippery walk in their ski boots. Nonetheless, for most guests, some walking is involved. So, make sure you leave your skis and boots in lockers near your most important lift and/or ski school meeting point, or a piste that leads to them. You’ll find details of the storage facilities across the resorts on the Les Deux Alpes website.
Check out the ski school websites to see where their classes assemble each morning. The ESF, for example, has four, none of which is in the northern suburb of 2 Alpes 1800. Nightlife, and many of the better restaurants, is at the southern end of town. Night owls should book accommodation nearby.
Because it’s the backbone of the Les Deux Alpes lift system, the ageing Jandri Express gondola generates long queues during busy weeks of the season. Staying near it makes sense if you want to get up to the higher reaches of the resort quickly — though you may have to get up early and arrive before it opens to beat these queues. Using the Diable, Belle Etoile, or Village 1800 lifts is more complicated in terms of route finding but will probably mean more skiing and less waiting in the peak season.
Eco-friendly Travel
If you’re looking to reduce your CO2 emissions, Les Deux Alpes is a great choice, thanks to the incredibly fast TGV service from Paris to Grenoble; sometimes, the train takes just three hours. You’ll need to change trains in Paris, of course, which means taking a taxi unless you fancy navigating the metro with your luggage. And you’ll need to catch the bus (or a private transfer) from Grenoble too. But for the most part, it’s a fun, relaxing journey.
